Every corner of the world has its own style of soup. While some parts of the United States are fixated on gumbo or chicken noodle, New England sticks to its roots with hearty bowls full of clam chowder.
Originally popularized in the 18th century, the stew is traditionally crafted with clams, potatoes, onions, and a luscious base of cream or milk. Other regional variations have also popped up, however, like the tomato-based rendition from Manhattan or the often thinner concoctions from the Pacific Northwest.
No matter how it’s served up, clam chowder is, without a doubt, most commonly associated with seaside towns and seafood shacks on the coasts. But, thanks to the rise of chain restaurants, it’s now a cup of warmth you can enjoy in all corners of the country, even including my landlocked state of Ohio. This is where I recently sampled the clam chowder from four popular establishments: Red Lobster, BJ’s Brewhouse, the Capital Grille, and the Cheesecake Factory.
On the hunt for that sea-breeze-in-your-hair, creamy-yet-chunky kind of recipe, I dove into the depths of these chain-made chowders and surfaced with a favorite. Here’s how each soup ranked in descending order from the least desirable to the absolute best.
BJ’s Brewhouse
Nutrition: (Per 1 Cup Serving)
Calories: 350
Fat: 21 g (Saturated Fat: 9 g)
Sodium: 920 mg
Carbs: 28 g (Fiber: 1 g, Sugar: 1 g)
Protein: 11 g
BJ’s Brewhouse is not necessarily known for its seafood. The chain, now standing at over 200 locations nationwide, actually got its start slinging deep-dish pizza and is now a melting pot of beer, American-style fare, and irresistible cookie and ice cream desserts coined Pizookies. Over the years, though, the restaurant has reeled in a few maritime favorites like shrimp scampi, Mahi Mahi tacos, and bowls of creamy clam chowder. BJ’s describes its soup recipe as a traditional one inspired by those found in New England–that means you should pronounce it “chowdah” to practice your Boston inflection.
No matter how it’s uttered, the dish can be served in a bowl or even a bread bowl for extra heartiness. But, I ordered a simple cup for $6.29.
The look: A full cup of stocky, cream-colored soup. Specks of green parsley are visible from the surface as well as clumps of potato and what appear to be small bits of meaty clam.
The taste: This chowder’s base is beyond viscous and clumpy, but not filled with quite as many chunks as other renditions. Diced into cubes, potatoes were the big fish of the cup, surrounded by minuscule slivers of the chewy marine mollusk. I’d say for every tender spud there were maybe one to two small bits of clam. These pieces carried minimal grit and decent flavor but in their absence, there was hardly any seafood essence to speak of. Instead, most spoonfuls were riddled with a bitter olive oil taste, as if it was used in place of butter in the recipe. It was either this or the saltiness that led to a strange stinging sensation in the back of the throat and left me with an overall poor taste in my mouth.
Red Lobster
Nutrition: (Per 1 Cup Serving)
Calories: 240
Fat: 15 g (Saturated Fat: 9 g)
Sodium: 680 mg
Carbs: 11 g (Fiber: 0 g, Sugar: 4 g)
Protein: 7 g
Despite being in hot water this year–filing for bankruptcy and abruptly closing dozens of locations–Red Lobster remains a casual-dining destination for boatloads of people across the country. It’s also the only chain on this list that fully dedicates its menu to aquatic grub, so it came as no surprise that this restaurant cooks up a version of clam chowder. The soup is a longtime staple and, like the variety found at BJ’s Brewhouse, it follows a simple New England style. I forked over $6.99 for a cup of the clam-filled concoction. A larger bowl is also available for $2 more.
The look: A ring of oil formed around the edges of this chowder—if you can call it that. It looks to me more like a cup of Alfredo sauce with some bits floating about.
The taste: Runny with a side of tastelessness. This broth is creamy to some degree, but it still stands as the thinnest of the bunch by far. Potato nuggets are common, though clam scraps were harder to come by—and when I was greeted with a juicy piece, it was often a bit more gravelly than I would prefer.
The real issue, however, is that Red Lobster’s rendition lacked gusto. It’s not rich, it lacks that seafood brine, and it seems any kind of seasonings including basic salt and pepper were kept to an unsatisfying minimum. Perhaps mediocre dishes like this clam chowder are the reason the chain is struggling to come up for air.
The Cheesecake Factory
Nutrition: (Per 1 Cup Serving)
Calories: 310
Fat: 19 g (Saturated Fat: 11 g)
Sodium: 990 mg
Carbs: 24 g (Fiber: 2 g, Sugar: 2 g)
Protein: 11 g
Have you ever stopped to wonder why the Cheesecake Factory menu is so eclectic and extensive? Well, it actually stemmed from a modest lineup of sandwiches, soups, and salads. But, it quickly expanded as owner David Overton worked to one-up other restaurants around the chain’s original location. He added Mexican fare to compete with a nearby taqueria, pasta to rival a local Italian eatery, and so on. So, really, it’s one man’s competitive spirit that hungry patrons have to thank for introducing them to less common dishes like clam chowder.
At the Factory, clam chowder is only churned out on Fridays–currently the only soup on the menu that’s served just one day a week. It’s available by itself in either a bowl for $9.95 or a cup for $8.50, which is the route I went. Plus, you have the option to order it as part of a soup and salad lunch special.
The look: The cup was half full when I received it, and I’m not just being pessimistic. However, it made up for it with a promising thick and chunky consistency.
The taste: Hearty and more scrumptious than I expected for a dish born from such an unspecialized restaurant. It’s certainly spud-forward with plenty of starchy flavor all around. The clam keeps up though, present in small fragments but also meatier masses with just the right amount of chew. Creamy, comforting, and even a bit buttery, I couldn’t help but continue going back for more. My few critiques would revolve around an extra dose of saltiness accompanied by a very mild ocean-life tang. But, as a whole, I’d say the chain has gained its sea legs and knew what it was doing when it developed this shellfish-inspired recipe.
The Capital Grille
Nutrition: (Per 1 Cup Serving)
Calories: 220
Fat: 16 g (Saturated Fat: 9 g)
Sodium: 650 mg
Carbs: 13 g (Fiber: <1 g, Sugar: 3 g)
Protein: 6 g
Best known for its dry-aged steaks and impeccable wine list, the Capital Grille has about 70 locations all across the country, and one just recently opened in my neck of the woods. I stopped by for the very first time to get my hands on its clam chowder, and let me tell you, it’s quite swanky. Valet is complimentary before you’re greeted by waiters dressed up in suits and place settings with starch white tablecloths. It certainly offers the fanciest dining experience among the chains on this list, and I wondered if that would equate to a top-of-the-line chowder.
At the steakhouse, it’s once again New England-based but also seasoned with the restaurant’s own blend of spices. My cup rang up $11 and the larger bowl was priced at $13.
The look: I’m not 100% sure that what was given to me was just a cup. This portion–flecked with clam, potatoes, and what appeared to be chives–meant business, standing at double the size of other offerings.
The taste: I thought all other soup iterations would have a hard time surpassing the one ladled from the Cheesecake Factory, but this cup rocked the boat, completely turning my head. It has all the makings of a wicked good chowder (New Englanders will appreciate the slang). It’s smooth and velvety at its core, but chock full of potatoes and salty clams that tastes like they were scooped from the water that same morning. Despite the item’s description, the seasonings are still kept light to let the seafood and broth speak for themselves. However, the chives add a touch of subtle zest in addition to a few shakes of pepper. I simply must give my compliments to the chef.
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